Right across the street from Xochimilco there’s the wood-paneled Tacos Matamoros, which looks and sounds more like a Benihana-style eatery than a place that slings al pastor and lengua. The facade put me off a bit, but I had read some good things so I decided to sneak a few tacos before I took the longish train ride back to Greenpoint.
Archive for the 'Brooklyn' Category
So I’ve been getting a lot of lip from you people about my neglect of Sunset Park. I guess that’s good. I guess it’s why I wanted to write about tacos in the first place. But the zeal some NYC taco hunters reserved for 5th Ave. between 39th and 56th inflated my expectations so much that I thought I was going to walk off the Subway, fall in a pile of pillowy tortillas and immediately be smothered in al pastor. Not so. The salsa verde does not flow through the streets of Sunset Park, but the tacos were there, and I was hungry.
This place is right across the street from Maria Hernandez Park, which from what I can tell is in a hispanic-dominated part of Bushwick. In fact, it reminded me a lot of Echo Park. It’s amazing how little you have to walk to get out of hipster town. I’m literally five blocks from the subway and suddenly there is a conspicuous lack of coffee shops and tiny restaurants serving “creative” American food.
Anyway, this place kind of surprised me, considering I stumbled into it completely ignorant. I had no idea what to expect, and in LA, that pretty much meant you were either going to be blown away or get food poisoning. Or both. A friend of mine discovered the hard way that they aren’t mutually exclusive. But that’s a different story for a different time, as my friend Liz would say.
I’d heard about Tortilleria Los Hermanos from several people (including a few native Californians) so in spite of the fact that the NYTimes likes it, I figured it was as good a place as any to start my search.
The first thing I saw when I walked up was a woman inside the window grilling meats, always a good sign. The factory itself isn’t big, and the dining area is really just two folding tables pushed together to form a kind of bar where everyone sits. I squished down in between two people really involved with what appeared to be tortas. After waiting for a couple to be served, I ordered one carne asada taco and a chorizo.